![]() Hannah McGibbon, the new creative director at Chloé and former right-hand woman to Phoebe Philo, has already set about restoring the label to its former glory by bringing back the prim pieces that were Chloé's signatures during Philo's time there. And both Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Alessandra Facchinetti at Valentino are offering a nice line in ruffled high-collar blouses. Creative director Stefano Pilati even created what he calls "a faux high-neck": a stretch black band that can be worn to give the effect of a polo-neck when paired with silk tunics and molded dresses. If there was any flesh exposed around the décolleté, it was hastily covered up with a jolly silk scarf.Īt YSL it was not just the décolleté but the neck which was covered up, with ultra-fine polo-neck tops under tunics and jackets. It's a look that seems unlikely to catch on with the ragazza of the Italian suburbs who are D&G's bread-and-butter customers.įor the more exclusive Dolce & Gabbana collection, prim tie-neck feather-print blouses (padded to increase their frump factor) and puff-sleeved corduroy tops and dresses were teamed with thick-ribbed tights and chunky, sensible shoes. They have even thrown in a paisley-print velvet balloon-sleeve top. There are high-collared tartan dresses, and argyle polo-neck knits. Quite the opposite: the muse for autumn's D&G collection is the Queen. The designers clearly took note, because there are no plunging necklines on Dolce catwalks these days. During their 22-year career, they have presented the fashion world with more heaving cleavage than the entire Wonderbra archive so much so that last year the New York Times felt duty-bound to speak out about the vulgarity of Milanese fashion with a feature that denounced the flashy, trashy "molto sexy" style of many Italian labels. After all, what could be more telling than a decisive about-turn by Dolce & Gabbana? Few designers have promoted fit-to-burst corset tops quite as vociferously as these two. I am not "stuck-up" or anything, just a person who enjoys being proper and formal.Autumn's collections will neatly draw a line under the cleavage issue. Everyone (well, not literally everyone) of my age uses such, lewd and vulgar vocabulary while I tend to use sophisticated terms and proper vocabulary and speak formal, addressing my family member by their formal names (mother, father, grandmother, grandfather, etc.). Yes, I am very prim and proper for someone who is of my age. No elbows on the table, especially if your elbow is big and takes up too much of my personal space! No bodily functions being mentioned of any kind, be it sexual or not, mentioned while I am eating! Belching and passing gas calls for an "excuse me" at all times. Other things unrelated to sex is that I cannot stand bad manners. Lewd, sexual jokes, especially ones having to do with me, are uncalled for, but I do not stop anyone from saying them (well, if it is about me then yes, I would like them to stop). It just sounds barbaric to me when people say that word. Saying "hump" is like saying people just met each other and the street and started to mate. For example, I dislike it when people say "hump" instead of "intercourse" or "love-making". I think I am a little bit too prim and proper.
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